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Room 7
 
The First Half of the 16th Century - The Separation of Stocking and Pants
 
Im 16. Jahrhundert trat das Söldnerwesen an die Stelle der Lehensverpflichtung und löste den bewaffneten Adel zu Pferde durch das kämpfende Fußvolk ab. Kaiser Maximilian I. (1493-1519), der in seinen Kriegen vom Adel und von der Reichsritterschaft zu wenig unterstützt wurde, begann Söldnermannschaften, so genannte Landsknechte, zum Kriegsdienst anzuheuern. Sie rekrutierten sich vornehmlich aus Bauern, aber auch Bürger und verarmte Adelige stießen hinzu.
 

German mountain infantry,
wearing the traditional "Landsknecht" costume,
early 16th century.

German "Landsknechte"
were credited with the separation
of pants and stockings in the
first third of the 16th century.

Traditional German
"Landsknecht" costumes,
first third of 16th century.

German "Landsknechte",
first third of 16th century.
     
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As foot soldiers, the mercenaries needed plenty of freedom of movement - so they sliced open the arm and leg joints of the tight Renaissance clothing, which led to the "separation" of stocking and pants. Later, all garments were sliced open and underlain with different colored fabrics - thus legwear got baggier and longer.

  

Landsknechte, first third
of the 16th century.

The cut of pants became incredibly loose, and shapeless - often they were only held together by ribbons and bows. The costume of the Landsknecht fulfilled all criteria for war uniforms: it was commanding, challenging and intimidating all at once.

  

A nobleman and a bourgeois
wearing Landsknecht-inspired clothing,
2nd half of 16th century.

The "fantasy" wear of the Landsknechte became the role model for all men in the 16th century, and the first imitators could be found in aristocratic circles. The flourishing bourgeoisie class, especially traders, craftsmen and even peasants, copied the clothing of Landsknechte. The harem pants worn by Landsknechte is the first piece of clothing (though in differing forms) worn by all classes, and a sign that class distinction had become less important during the end of the Renaissance period. The Landsknechte formed the fashion avant-garde. For the first time in history, the upper class was not the trend-setter in matters of fashion.

  

French aristocrats wearing Landsknecht-inspired clothing,
2nd half of 16th century.
 

Even peasant's clothing
was inspired by the fashion
of Landsknechte.

With the separation of pants and stocking in the 16th century - the true history of the knit stocking (as its own piece of clothing) begins; and for the time being, stockings played a key role exclusively in men's fashion.

  

 

Long, boy's stockings,
hand-knit and embroidered
with gold and silver threads,
between 1600 and 1620.
 

Women's stockings remained
hidden under floor-length
dresses even in
the 16th century.

to room 8: The Second Half of the 16th Century

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