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6. Helanca

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In 1931, the American Rudolph H. Kägi presented the result of months of research to the manager of the American subsidiary of the Swiss company Heberlein & Co. - a new yarn. Mr. Kägi was a specialist for twine production, and he developed a new method of achieving the characteristics of wool in flat artificial silk fibers. In his method, he spun the acetate fibers into a springy spiral, then wove it with wool to produce the first stretch fabric.

Long Helanca children's sock by the company "Allgäu" in Leutkirch, first half of the 1950's.

The company Heberlein & Co. in Wattwil acquired this process and patented it. This new yarn, which no longer possessed the gloss and smoothness of synthetic silk, was soft and warm just like wool, and was trademarked under the name "Helanca".

Advertising Campaign for Helanca Socks.

At first, the dimensional stability of articles made from Helanca synthetic silk was inadequate - with each wash, an article of clothing became larger and longer, and elasticity was lost.

Children's tights by the company G. B. L., (Bali GmbH) in Schwetzingen, (...Helanca plated with wool, flat-knit, app. 1958. The first children's tights were produced on Cotton patent machines and therefore were flat-knit and had a backward seam. Wool was often mixed in with Helanca to increase heat retention.

Advertising campaign for Hudson Helanca lady's and children's tights. (...the high elasticity of Helanca material enables the production of circular-knit seamless tights).

After World War II, Helanca initially lost its importance. During this time, the first deliveries of the new "wonder material" nylon were arriving from the United States.

Seamless Hudson Helanca children's tights, app. 1960.

In 1945, the first few kilos of nylon yarn were available in Wattwil. Heberlein & Co. used the Helanca process to treat the nylon, and the results were very satisfying. Now - a thread was available that was "fantastically elastic" - so elastic that knitters were against using this new Helanca-product.

When processed in a suitable yarn count, Helanca was very durable, (...as seen in these men's socks made from 12-fold Helanca yarn, which were marketed as "iron hard").

In Lyon, France, the Helanca method was progressing in another direction. Where before the nylon fibers were simply rolled up, fixated and uncoiled again, the French were processing two nylon threads - one coiled clockwise and one coiled counter-clockwise. Both threads were then twisted. The excessive stretching of nylon Helanca from a single thread was therefore remedied, and the elasticity of the new yarn reached optimal levels.

When processed in a suitable yarn count, Helanca was very durable, (...as seen in these men's socks made from 12-fold Helanca yarn, which were marketed as "iron hard").

This new textured yarn caused a revolution in the hosiery market of the 50's and 60's. Hosiery produced with this new yarn could be dyed in more brilliant and glossy colors than with conventional yarns. Stockings and socks became more colorful, crease-free and easy to care for.

Helanca yarn had a better affinity for dyes and the color was more intense than with the natural fibers known at the time (...Campaign for Men's Sock Fashion, app. 1954).

Children's "Brilliant Helanca" sock by the company Goldfalter (...early 1970's).

The first fine Lady's Helanca stockings on the market were crepe stockings, and a while later, the first Helanca crepe tights appeared.

Lady's crepe stockings, app. 1960 (...with fine Helanca yarn, it was possible to produce "sheerer" circular-knit stockings (and later tights), towards the end of the 1950's).

7. Yarns for Knit Hosiery