7. Additional Synthetic Yarns for Hosiery Production: Yarns for Knit Hosiery

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Brochure on Chemical Fibers, 1950's.

Brochure on Chemical Fibers, 1950's.

Since the early 1950's, synthetic fibers were being used more and more often in hosiery production. Polyamide (PA) such as the fibers nylon and Perlon - well-known since 1938 - increased the elasticity of hosiery and were therefore often blended with natural fiber knit hosiery, as a plating material or to reinforce heels and toes.

Long children's sock, wool, reinforced with Perlon, app. 1953.

In 1941, the invention of polyester ("Terylene") by the chemists J. R. Whinfield and Dickson at the Calico Printers Association led to a new type of yarn. This yarn - a blend of polyester and wool - enabled the production of inexpensive hosiery that could be cross-dyed and was boil-proof. It was Carother's invention of nylon that paved the way for this new yarn.

Pamphlet and men's socks, "elasta" brand (...wool blended with nylon, made by the Elastik-Strumpffabrik Karl Müller, Allendorf).

The German post-war trend of pure textiles and hosiery made from synthetic fibers can be attributed to the general desire to start afresh. Hosiery made from pure polyamide or Helanca was becoming increasingly popular, but its relatively low water absorption was causing new problems such as perspiration or athlete's foot. Even new methods, which hosiery manufacturers called "deodorizing" and "athlete's foot-inhibiting" and publicized as "Hygitex" (paraphrased from Helanca) in the 1960's, could not solve the problem.

Long children's socks, Helanca (...with the hygienic finish R-52 made by Gläser-Strumpffabriken, Heidelberg, app. 1954).

In 1942, acrylic fibers were enhanced by I.G.-Farben on the basis of a production method for polyacrylonitrile invented by Herbert Rein in 1934. This new material was named "PAN". After having a look at I.G.-Farben's patents, the Americans obtained the right to technically analyze these fibers in the United States. Although German research projects had a high priority, the results of the war and its after-effects on Germany led to the U.S. company Du Pont being the first to market polyacrylonitrile fibers under the trademark "Orlon". After 1952, polyacrylics were blended with wool and cotton to make the material more tear-proof. Hosiery made from 100% polyacrylics was very sturdy. Due to its fleecy surface, polyacrylics were also often used as a wool substitute. Additionally, acrylics have a high affinity for dyes.

Children's Orlon-Lunasoft tights (...made by Götzburg, Lautlingen, app. 1970).

Advancements in the texturing of yarn e.g. drawing and twisting, heat fixing and looping led to a constant flow of new developments and trademarks in the 50's and 60's, all of which cannot be displayed here. "Dralon", "Orlon" and "Dolan" played roles in hosiery production in addition to Helanca.

Advertisement for children's Dralon tights (...made by Adolf Engel,
Reutlingen, app. 1960).

Through various forms of crimping, textured yarn obtains additional features, namely fill power (bulk) and elasticity. Products made from these yarn types are characterized by increased heat retention, bulk, temperature compensation, air-permeability, shape retention and softness to the touch.

"Cool-Socks" made of Dolan (made by Marum, Sobernheim, app. 1970).

Some hosiery manufacturers later developed their own yarns, for example the wool-like yarn made from polyamide and polyacrylics "Ergolan" by Ergee. The yarn was especially well-liked by children, because it promised to remedy the problem of the "scratchy" socks and tights available until that time.

Poster for children's tights made of "Ergora" (...app. 1968. Boy's tights made of "Ergolan", 1972. The polyester/polyamide yarn created by the company Ergee was named "Ergora" at first - after protests from competitors, this trademark was prohibited due to its similarity to the word "angora", which competitors felt deceived consumers. Ergee then named its yarn "Ergolan".

Excerpt from a catalogue offering a pair of Ergee tights made of Ergolan (...the "yarn with the chick" - probably the most well-known trademark for knit hosiery yarns in the 1970's).